Top beauty brands face lawsuits over hair product concerns

In a dramatic turn of events, thousands of Black women are taking legal action against the manufacturers of hair relaxers in federal court in Chicago. These products, used to straighten curly hair, have become a significant industry, generating billions in revenue annually. However, recent lawsuits highlight a darker side to their popularity.

The Controversial History of Hair Relaxers

Hair relaxers emerged in the early 1900s as a breakthrough for managing textured hair. Yet, their success underscores a troubling reality. As one plaintiff shared in an NBC News segment, “I wanted a job… going to an employer with an afro back in those days would not have cut it.”

Research by Dove and LinkedIn in 2023 reveals systemic biases: Black women’s hair is 2.5 times more likely to be deemed “unprofessional” compared to white women’s hair. The study also found that:

  • 66% of Black women alter their hair for job interviews.
  • 41% switch from curly to straight hair for interviews.
  • 54% feel compelled to wear their hair straight to be successful.
  • 25% believe their hair has led to missed job opportunities.

Fidelma Fitzpatrick, a New York attorney co-leading the lawsuit, explains that many women used relaxers due to societal pressures or personal choices influenced by advertising. “Some used it because their jobs or society back in the ’80s and ’90s required Black and brown women to straighten their hair,” Fitzpatrick said.

Health Risks of Chemical Hair Relaxers

A 2022 National Institute of Health study found that women who frequently used hair relaxers were more than twice as likely to develop uterine cancer compared to non-users. Previous research has linked relaxers to increased rates of breast and ovarian cancer, fibroids, and aggressive tumor growth.

Alexandra White, head of the NIEHS Environment and Cancer Epidemiology group, noted that while uterine cancer is relatively rare, the rising incidence rates among Black women are alarming.

NBC News highlighted the personal impact of these health risks through the stories of five plaintiffs, all of whom required hysterectomies due to uterine cancer linked to relaxer use. Marnita Ballard, one of the plaintiffs, described her diagnosis at age 37 as devastating. “It made me feel like my womanhood was taken away,” Ballard said.

L’Oréal’s Involvement and Product Safety Concerns

L’Oréal, a major player in the hair care industry, has come under scrutiny. In November 2023, the company asserted that the health and wellbeing of its consumers are their highest priorities. However, the Environmental Working Group, a nonprofit that assesses product safety, gave L’Oréal’s Dark & Lovely Hair Relaxer a “health hazard score” of 10 out of 10.

The lawsuits accuse L’Oréal of misleading consumers about the safety of its hair relaxer products, alleging that the company failed to disclose the harmful chemicals contained in these products. These cases fall under product liability law, holding manufacturers accountable for defective and dangerous products.

A Growing Legal Battle

As of August 1, 2024, over 8,200 cases are active, marking this as one of the fastest-growing mass lawsuits in recent history. The legal battle against hair relaxer manufacturers continues to gain momentum, spotlighting the intersection of beauty standards, consumer safety, and corporate accountability.

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